Caron Carnation series, Bellodgia the Carnation Queen

sargent_carnation_lily_lily_rose.jpg

Bellodgia was created in 1927 to immortalize a small Italian town by the same name.  It is a favorite of Caron’s American customers.    Now, I SWEAR I had a sample of the extrait, however, it’s either been accidentally gifted or possibly swallowed by the baby or a pet.  So…I am reviewing the EDP which, though not the extrait, is quite glorious in itself. The opening is spicy, though not as heady and exotic as Poivre, but definitely the spicy carnation we see in other Caron compositions.  It is a warm, almost tactile experience, similar to the cashmere sweater feel of Parfum Sacre.  However where Parfum Sacre veers into incense rose sex, Bellodgia develops a creamy milk taste for the nose, becoming sweet, though not sticky. Powdery violet peeks in as lily of the valley bats her flirty lashes at us before she sneaks away in the background.  Finally, we get more sweet stuff before a light musky woodiness.  Does anyone feel musk has an olfactory flavor to it?  I pause to say gourmand, as it doesn’t really smell foodie to me, but there is some sort of a mouth feel to it I can’t quite get into words.    Not quite as dark as some of the other Caron’s possibly due to the lack of saxon moss, Bellodgia cycles through its sweet spice over and over until it dries down to the subtle woody spice.  During the transitions, we easily see how Bellodgia inspired other Caron favorite, serving as a base to build upon.  From the grandmother, it is easy to trace the lineage of Poivre, Coup de Fouet and Parfum Sacre back to her.  Each perfume’s spiciness draws upon the composition of Bellodgia with a new interpretation.  I like to think of it as a series of photographs.  First, there is the sepia toned Bellodgia print of a carnation in a dark wood frame.  You can see the beauty of the composition and the sepia tone imparts warmth to the picture. Absolutely older, but a classy print you love to have on your wall.  Then you get a bright Technicolor Print of Poivre in an opulent gilded frame.  Bold, and bright, the colors are so rich and intense it almost looks like a thickly paved oil painting of carnations in a myriad of colors.  This exotic work is immediately noticed by all that surround you.  Coup de Fouet is somewhere off to the side of the Poivre, smaller, watercolor-esque in a silver frame.  Pretty, but a faded interpretation.   Parfum Sacre is a more modern work.  It’s generally black and white with flourishes of red.  Roses, smoke and woods replace the carnation.  However, even though the carnation is not in the composition, you feel the kindred spirit in the perfume.    Typically, when a perfume house has a certain composition that they update with a different twist, the older version goes out the window.  Caron’s good sense in keeping all versions around allows Caron sluts like me to explore a perfume’s lineage and appreciate where we have been and where we are now.**  yes, I realize that the perfumes are not meant to be reinterpretations.  Notes: carnation, rose, jasmine, violet, lily of the valley, sandalwood, vanilla and muskphoto:http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Sargent_Carnation_Lily_Lily_Rose.jpg

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Published in: on January 8, 2008 at 10:18 am  Comments (2)  

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2 CommentsLeave a comment

  1. Where have I been that I have not seen your blog before? That picture is one of my very favorites and I adore Caron! Great review and analysis of the “lineage” of the Carons. I will be back!

  2. I really liked this one! Maybe the best I’ve tried so far. Must get some for myself. Great springtime scent? Yes.


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