Le Labo Patchouli 24

A few weeks ago I found someone selling off thier hard to find decant of Le Labo’s Patchouli, and as I have a friend who LOVES the patch fairy, I had to pick it up for me her.  (I did decant some of the decant for her to see if she liked it) The first few times I smelled it, it was a harsh opening of birch tar, burning rubber that bled into some earthy-diiirrty-sex smell. I was repulsed by the opening and then slayed by the middle notes.  If I left the small decant bottle on the desk and walked by I would be haunted by the smell emanating from the bottle.   

Burning tires at the dump are followed by scorched earth–burned to revitalize the fields for planting.  Smoke has barely dissapated though patches cling to the humid water molecules hanging in the air after the rain.   A soaked sundress clinging to female skin, topped with a well worn leather jacket, pungent with tobacco smoke and male and a tiny piece of dark chocolate in the pocket.  The sky is still dark with more rain on the way.   This one is dark and earthy, I find it very alluring as it calls me to whatever corner of the room I have put the bottle and makes me pause as I walk by. Some odd element is akin to PQ catnip, however the King does not feel that way.

Me:  smell me:

King: *sniff*  “don’ t like it.  at all”

me: “hmmm it does smell a little like a *resniff* burning car tire.” (BTW some have likened it to Black Cashmere, which has been recently discontinued.  Must dig my samp to see if it is worth trolling for a bottle)

King “don’t like it”

Me: “Chloe did you poop? Oh that’s the perfume.” *resniffs* hmm there’s another good note”

later

King: “sickly sweet cinna-buns.  you can’t say the smell is bad, but it’s just not what I want to smell on a woman.”

from Le Labo : “Even though it is vital to the olfactory shock this perfume generates, Patchouli is not easy to detect in this formula. The smoky, leathery character of birch takes over in the first few seconds, making this signature absolutely unique and difficult to situate. Fortunately, a touch of vanilla comes in to calm this little world, bringing peace, sensuality and softness to these violent animal notes.
A scent filled with danger for those of us who like to walk a tight rope…”

Danger?   I think it begs to be worn in the cleavage in either a black dress or otherwise clingy ensemble.  Maybe by a female spy.  I love it, but can only wear it while the king is off on business.  Full Bottle?  Probably not.  Le Labo is kinda ’spensive and this decant will last me ages. 

notes: patchlouli, birch, styrax, vanilla

 photo from imdb.com

sniff-sneeze-sigh-cry

I’ve had some terrible allergies this week and nothing smells quite normal to me.  It’s unfair to review anything.  But I haven’t gone naked.  I found myself craving the warm spicy comfort of DelRae’s Bois de Paradis.  In short, blackberry jam, cinnamon, woods.  Delightfully warming after a hot nasal passage clearing bath and doesn’t scream ” I am food!”  It does deserve a proper review at a later time, so look for it in the future. 

Also- the body cream is amazing.  Smells exactly like the perfume so you can use it alone or in conjunction to really knock people over with your olfactory awesome-ness.  And, bonus, it hydrates skin really well.  This is a fall-winter staple for me. 

Upcoming—

 White Shoulders.  I got some vintage in the mail in parfum strength.  From the few whiffs I caught after nose-blowing, I will never look at my dad like he’s grown a third head when he suggests it as a nice perfume. 

Giselle–a chocolatey treat from Carol

And My offical Bad-Girl Guide to perfume. 

Thanks for hanging in out there!  For those of you who attended sniffa, I am so very jealous!  It sounds like it was a blast

Time for a Spring List!

Sometimes we bloggers jones to make a list.  Spurred by the spring time lists at Fragrancebouquet and Fortheloveofperfume, I think I’ll add my two cents, which I’ve been considering ever since that groundhog popped his head above ground.  So here it is, my official top perfumes for spring, which by the way is a fleeting season here in Houston.  We get about 4 weeks of temperatures between the upper 50’s an mid 70’s then BOOM it’s summertime.   

In seasonal order

Fredric Malle Iris Poudre

I have the feeling it will be the year I discover the magic of Iris.  Last year I turned my nose up at this gem and though “meh.  too classy-powdery blah”  This year is another story.  I had reached in the candy jar to get Carnal Flower and got this one out by mistake, applying before I knew I had erred.  It must have been fate.  Remininscent of Chanel number five, it is elegant, sophisticated beauty.  It begins with a little citrus and carnation spice, then some wet smelling florals that give an aura of purple powder and leaves a trail of musk and woods tinged with vanilla.  Aldehydes in this composition are rounded and soft, contrasting the sharper edges of no 5’s soapy aldehydes.  The perfume is the chill of winter turning into the chill of spring.  You still wear sweaters, cashmere in this case, but they are more pastel colored and you feel the hint of sun warming through them.  I love this for the very begining of spring and evenings, or just whenever I want to smell elegant while keeping boys at an arm’s length. This perfume says you must work to get to know me.  Twilight hues/  It also reminds me a  bit of Feminite du Bois, which is no surprise since the nose, Pierre Bourdon was also behind FdB.  That man knows his way around purple perfume.  notes bergamot, rosewood, ylang ylang, carnation, magnolia, jasmine, lily of the valley, violet, rose, aldehydes, iris, musk, amber, vanilla, sandalwood, and ebony

As the seaon’s weather gets warmer, it rains copiously.  On those rainy days, nothing is quite as perfect as Apres L’Ondee, with its warm, soapy, clean baby, powder, skin and breezy vanilla.  It is the rain, it is the white curtains in the cool breeze and the sleepy baby between white sheets.  Unfortunately I just ran out of this and may have to remedy the situation.  notes: bergamot, neroli, aniseed, hawthorn, violet, heliotrope, iris and musk

The cold rains followed by warmer weather then another cold snap ultimately mean one thing. Catching Cold.  When I am the sick one, I usually wear one of my go-to’s depending on situation.  But when I’m the nurse, I lean towards lavander scents, like Encense et Lavande by Serge Lutens Herbs- rosemary and clary sage set the stage for heavy lavendar.  It’s soothing, reflective and un intrusive.  Those who take it in are not jarred by florals or heavy nast or obnoxious fruits.  However, it isn’t “joyous, ” just comforting like a cup of tea clean sheets and a cool wash cloth on the forehead.  Eventually it becomes Serge-sweet with a hint of ambery syrup leading into a drier incense.  notes: bergamot, neroli, aniseed, hawthorn, violet, heliotrope, iris and musk

As the weather warms and the trees begin to display green baby buds, I like to wear Parfum di Nicolai UnTemps de Une Fete.  I reviewed it in greater detail here.  It’s soft and pale green then blooms into lovely spring flowers.  Before it’s too innocent the skank comes out to begin the season’s fertility rights before running ino the newly awakened woods.  Lovely for the out doors as it doesn’t compete with natural settings and lovely for any occasion you want to be beautiful with a slight mischevious edge.  I’ve already used an eigth of my bottle, and for a girl with a serious habit, that’s alot!  galbanum, mastic, opoponax, narcissus, hyacinth, daffodil, styrax, oakmoss, sandalwood

Spring is almost at it’s peak.  Everything is in full bloom and it’s almost perfect weather.  It’s time for Annick Goutal Songes, a gorgeous flroal with hints of summery coconut and vanilla.  It’s the girliest, most feminine thing I have ever smelled.  It’s like femininty on a pedestal, up there to be admired and adored, not so much for touching.  No dirtiness in the composition (to my nose) unlike in Fracas, Carnal Flower or others we could name. It says, I am a really gorgeous woman, but you can only look, maybe snuggle and kiss my feet.  I am an untouchable goddess.  notes jasmine, ylang-ylang, vanilla, frangapini

Now the weather turns warmer and you are spending long days outside in the sun and fields.  Nature is in full bloom and everyone feels a bit more romantic.  It is the perfect time to bring out the full force florals. The kind that take no prisoners and leave others feeling stunned and smitten in your wake. 

It’s time for

CB i hate perfume Cradle of Light — Big sexy white floral that smell INSANELY heady and sexy, a few bits of green for balance and the big bad CB Musk that alone smells like, well, butt crack, but combined with the floral cocktail here smells like it’s time to haul the honey in and procreate.  DO NOT wear this perfume unless you intend to follow through on your flirtatious promises.  Intense, and nearly narcotic a tiny drop is all you need to make people fall to the floor and worship you.  It is the actual RITE of spring, in a bottle.   notes jasmine, jonquil, narcissus, tuberose, white lotus, sumac, tomato and violet leaves, galbanum, sandalwood and CB MUSK

DelRae Amoureuse Is another floral come-hither I’ve mentioned many a time on the blog.  However the additon of citrus, spice and honey usher in the much warmer weather that heralds the coming of summer.  Simply put, it’s sex in a sun baked field of daisies.  One of my alltime favorites and greatest discoveries thus far.   notes Tangerine, cardamom, French tuberose, French jasmine, Tahitian ginger lily, cedar, moss, sandalwood, honey

Neil Morris Swoon is another sunny, skin scent of seduction.  I’ve mentioned it elsewhere, but let me reiterate it’s fine points — fresh grapefruit, loads of civiety skin with some delicious florals mixed in there.  I’ve got a little bit left, but am holding out on a bottle until he  puts the rest of the vault creations on line so I can consider those as well.  Have you stopped by there yet? notes (as left my Neil morris on the wrap-up post) Top: Orange, Fruit Note
Heart: Tomato Leaf, Philodendron, Dossinia, Jasmine Sambac, Peony, Honeysuckle, Narcissus, Black Tea
Base: Oakmoss, Agarwood, Civette, Musk, Patchouli

Well, I could go on about rebirth and nature and stuff, but that gets kind of trite.  What are your spring picks?

BTW thank you to Carol, who is off at Sniffa having a ball and I am so very jealous of, I just got your box and have been spraying like a mad woman! 

Tabu

   I mis-spoke in my teaser-trailer.  Tabu has been touched on in a few reviews and mentioned on a few boards.  However, after spending a few days wearing it, I think it has been overlooked in our frenzy to try the uber branded and much more expensive offerings.  Had it not been for the mention in The Bombshell Manual of Style  I might never have ordered up a sample and given it a serious audition.  Expecting some cheap “Designer Imposter”-esque trashiness I was pleasantly surprised at what genie emerged from the bottle.  

On paper it sounds like a good basic chypre.  However on bare skin it is anything but basic.   Spicy, almost medicinal rose warms up to voluptuous decadence as it mingles with a slightly candied orange.  Jasmine seduces the bloom off the rose as rakishly as a cad seduces a young girl out of her panties.   Spices give the compostion an velvety texture, like the velvet on a well placed leopard chaise in a boudoir.  I am enveloped in a cloud of smelling good yet very, very wicked.  In the middle, the flowers meld together to create and idea of smoke and petals…something like cinders glowing dark red on a fire.  Definately too much to wear out in the heat, unless you are brazen as am I,  but one spray would definately warm me up on a cold day and would go perfectly fireside with heat warming up naked canoodling skin.  The amber in the drydown is honeyed milk mixed with glorious musk.  Sandalwood takes on a woodsy vanilla that is just skin but better, though on the baby it becomes darjeeling tea.  Very sexual, intoxicating perfume, I’ve hardly put it down since I’ve tried it.

From The Bombshell Manual of Style we are told “This is not a scent for the faint-hearted Bombshell.  Potent and spicy with a “narcotic” floral heart, this scent is the velvety, sizzling starter for many a Bombshell and is most fitting for those with an uninhibited nature.  Tabu comes on as strong and sexy as Dorthy Dandridge playing the free-spirited Carmen Jones, Gine Lollobrigida in Trapeze, Ava Gardner in the Barefoot Contessa.  Remarkably versatile, it goes with wine colored velvet, black velvet and all manner of peasant garb.” 

From www.fragrantica.com “The first fragrance of the house was Tabu, created by Jean Carles 1932. Jean Carles was well known for his wonderful creations made of unusual materials. Before creating Tabu, he was instructed to make a fragrance for a whore (‘un parfum de puta’). Thus, Tabu was created, sensual and shocking.” 

Both descriptions seem mostly apt.  It does take daring to wear something as potent as this number can be, particularily in the heat of summer (though a dreamon a sultry summer night) Though Whorish?  Well, the worst of it is the faint trace of bubble gum that I get when the potion takes a quick breather.  However those faint traces of gum popping ill-manneredness quickly fade to reveal more of the wild nature of the perfume.  If it is for a whore, it seems to fit more of a courtesan or a Heinlien-ian happy whore.  His instructions for happiness in bed go something to the effect of “leave all inhibitions at the door and do your whorish best.”  Perhaps, had the spec for the perfume been written today “Whore” would have been replaced with “agressive” “confident” “experienced” or maybe even “mature” sexy woman who takes pleasure when and where she wants it.  Afterall, whore has such a sad, pitable connotation as the word brings to mind Fantine in Les Miserables as opposed to Madame de Pompadour or any other example you could supply.   

The seamless draping of the composition’s scent around me remind me of a Caron as it is dark, with a trail of cream.  Spicy, full bodied and mature. Actually, I see a direct correlation to Parfum Sacre and possibly Or et Noir. If I couldn’t afford those wonders, Tabu would definately suffice and I wouldn’t feel gyped in the least– more like a genius to have discovered a secret stunner all my own and very affordable.  This sleeper is very inexpensive (I hate to say cheap!) and I am sure if it were more expensive it would get much more attention from we perfumistas.  The taboo in Tabu?  Paying so little for something pretty extraordinary.  Find the parfum strength and snicker when people ask you what obscene thing you are wearing.

Notes are rose, orange blossom, jasmine, vetiver, oakmoss, amber and musk civet sandal wood patchouli.

Oh, PS:  I am getting better at responding to comments!

  

 

 

 

 

Coming Soon

Here is a teaser for the next post.  It’s a bombshell perfume that NO ONE has reviewed outside of Make-up Alley.  It’s very available, and dare I say even cheap, so if it causes a lemming, there shall be no guilt ladies!  (and the few gents who lurk)

Friday and Saturday are going to be busy days for me.  I will be spending Friday with a very old friend of mine who is in town from the West Coast.  I rarely see her and her baby and I’m quite excited.  I’ll be road testing the next perfum review here. Saturday I’m headed for the beach with my sister and some friends to open the sun season.  Probably will wear EdM or maybe Jicky EDT for the beach.  Sexy, but not too-too if you know what I mean. 

So, what are you guys wearing this weekend and why?

PS I’m slowly updating the decant list, so take a gander!

A perfume quandry and something interesting~

Cryptic titles make for fun.

The quandry:  What does a perfumista wear to the zoo on a most assuredly humid muggy Houston day? 

I’m leaning towards Parfums de Nicholai Un Temps de une Fete or possible my new love Swoon by Neil Morris, but may change my mind and would love to hear my reader’s creative thoughts on this one. 

and the Something interesting:  Go back to my Neil Morris Wrap Up and read the comments.  Neil actually read my post and left me a comment!  Isn’t that nifty ya’ll??? He also left the mysterious notes to my new friend Swoon and the notes for Parfum D’Ida.  I really love how personal the perfume world can be. 

Well, I am off to relieve the scullery maid in the kitchen and then to my book Mysteries of Udolpho, by Ann Radcliffe, which may have been the subliminal impetus for testing Onda and Djedi with it’s gothic scenes and dark themes. 

I think I will avoid Calvin Klein Obsession click the words to read the article

stormy weather or Onda, the return of Djedi

It’s a particularily rainy day here.  Sometimes I want a bright perfume to perk up the darkness, but today I want to wallow electrically charged storminess.  On days like this I might deem a sniff of Djedi appropriate as imagine myself caught in a storm on the moors, but I just received a sample of Vero Profumo Onda in a package, which is purportedly the closest thing to Djedi that one could actually find and afford.

Unlike it’s cousin, Onda opens almost clean in comparison. Dry leather, and it’s actually dry, like it’s been hanging in a tack room for a few years and collected a thin veil of dust.  Where Djedi smothers me with animalics and syrupy cinnamon, Onda has powerful leather and syrup, no cinnamon and almost a mint edge to give a slight coolness to the composition.  As it wears, the leather becomes stronger, though not nearly as stifling. (pleasurable stifling.)  It seems that Djedi is the sudden storm that hits without warning and Onda must build up to its full force.

Then the middle.  Oh what is this?  It melds to my skin something nice.The leather seems to have been properly absorbed by my chemistry and the effect is mesmerizing.  Vetvier tempered with the spices seem to have reached it’s finish here and gives the smell ofwet earth, the TINIEST bit of animalic and the traces of spice. Almost manly in it’s dusky woods with rain thing going on, it smells a bit mysterious on me and would probably be right at home on a man. Not quite what I had in mind to suit the stormy weather but at least I got a chance to give it a whirl.  Onda would be more at home after the rain begins to dry. Bottom of the composition is real perfection.  Cool green grass with a little sweetness that mimicks a white floral admist a green composition.  Added benefit is that the drydown lingers for hours.  I applies around 10 ish this morning and it’s been in the swan song phase since 2 pm.  If any part of Onda would compel me to plunk down diaper money it would be the drydown.  I want to roll in it. 

The new Djedi?  No, at least not on me.  Onda is less animalic, less brooding and much happier for me to  experience than the deep green monster in the gothic basement.  Djedi is the actual storm in the gothic castle, Onda is the dry up of the rain on the moors.  Similar, but worlds apart in thier feel for me.  Do I love it?  Kind of.  It’s not a bottle lemming yet, as I prefer the smothering, skanky torture of it’s ancestor, but I might consider a larger decant. 

photo credit: beautifulengland.net  one from a collection from an area known as the Bronte country

notes : vetvier, ginger mace coriander.  Only four components?  This is either genius of combining or someone left out part of the notes.    wow